It's a city of 8.5 million people. It's got over 700 miles of subway track and an infrastructure so complex that its details have never been fully mapped. It's a place where whole city blocks are routinely torn down and rebuilt, where the jackhammer might sometimes be taken for the state bird. It's hard enough to find a parking place or a restroom, so how in the world does a director lock down locations for a Gotham production? The task isn't as daunting as it might sound. He or she simply hires an experienced New York City location scout.

When Joseph Zolfo, who happens to be one of these, was working on the Barry Levinson film Sleepers, his job was to transform the working class neighborhood of Greenpoint, Brooklyn into 1965 Manhattan's Hell's Kitchen. And when the production designer was concerned that air conditioners in apartment building windows were threatening that illusion, Zolfo had to canvas the community and see if he could have them taken out. So just before shooting, during the hottest part of a New York summer, he knocked on every door in a six block square radius and made the request.

Greenpoint is a primarily Polish and Spanish-speaking community along the East River. Many people living there speak no English at all. So Zolfo enlisted the help of a bilingual 10-year-old Polish girl and a young man fluent in both Spanish and English. It wasn't long before approximately 200 air conditioners had been removed from windows facing the street. "It was my business," Zolfo said, "to become friendly with everyone in the neighborhood. I explained to them the situation and asked them to work with us. And 99 percent of them did."

Sound antithetical to the image of the cold, quick-tempered New Yorker? Well, talk to most location people who spend a lot of time getting to know the city's neighborhoods and they will probably be the first to refute that stereotype. "I've had people I've known for five minutes say, 'oh, I have to go out, but if you want to show the director the apartment, here's the keys,'" said Lys Hopper, a seasoned location manager. And you hear stories like this over and over.

Hopper was recently scouting a designer dress store in fashionable Soho with director Tony Goldwyn for his film Animal Husbandry. Looking around with the production designer, Goldwyn suddenly had the idea to shoot a dream sequence where Ashley Judd would walk around the corner and see a beautiful display with cows wearing designer dresses. "So while we were standing in the store negotiating shooting a movie at all," Hopper remembers, laughing, "suddenly the idea of cows came up."

She gently broached the subject with the store owner. "I said, 'I know they're thinking about using your dresses, but now they also have this idea about [pause] cows'. And of course she's thinking that we would bring in models of cows. And I said 'no, no, real cows.' And that's what's just amazing about New York. You'd think they'd say, 'well thank you very much and see you later.' But she said, 'well maybe you ought to talk to my husband about it.' And I did, and we worked it out."

Things don't always move along so smoothly when it comes to finding and securing locations in New York City. Even with experienced professionals on the job, the place can be complicated and unpredictable. "All of us have stories of prepping a location that you picked six months ago," Laurie Pitcus, another veteran location manager, said. "You watch three seasons go by, you've been watching the building, no one's done any painting. And the night before shooting, Con Ed [New York's power company] comes in and tears up the whole street."

Problem solving is a major part of being a location manager. Scouting for Joel Schumacher's film, Flawless, Pitcus was pleased to find some vacant storefronts in the East Village that were perfect for the bombed-out late-'80s look she sought - a look that was disappearing due to the gentrification of this historical - if sketchy - neighborhood. She wanted to build specific sets in these particular storefronts that were written into the script. When she returned a few months later, some of the shops were occupied. One was a bakery that Pitcus wanted to rent and turn into the pizza parlor.

"This bakery had coffee in a pot that had been sitting there for three months and it was fairly apparent to us that the owners weren't really selling baked goods or coffee," Pitcus recalls. "They had their own business going on the side and we actually had to negotiate with them to move for a brief amount of time - which they did - once we explained that lots of police officers and official people work alongside film crews. They decided to move, given a payment which was probably a drop in the bucket compared to what they were really making."

With all the complications of finding suitable locations in New York, the Mayor's Office of Film, Theater and Broadcasting is there to help production companies.

"We have a very unique package of resources that no other municipality offers in the United States," Julianne Cho, director of the office's Department of Publicity and Special Events told me. "And that consists of free permits, free locations and free police assistance when necessary."

This means that you can basically shoot on any public street in New York City without cost, providing you have insurance and obtain a permit. The office also will act as a liaison to city agencies. These contacts open up opportunities that can assist moviemakers facilitate their demanding requests.

But many location managers say that the location game is getting more difficult in New York because of skyrocketing rents. Especially hard pressed are low budget movies. "In the old days," Pitcus says, "a holding area - which is just a support area and restroom for extras and background actors when they're not working - used to go for $250 to $500 a day. Now I think all of us always budget at least $1000 to $2000 just for that."

Enormous demolition and construction projects in all five boroughs have also been a problem for productions - especially period films. "Everywhere you go," Hopper, observes, "where you thought you'd still have a certain feel - like going into the Bronx to find '70s New York - that timeless row of tenement buildings that nothing's been added to - the renovations are just insane. And when you do find something, you've got scaffolding everywhere. I mean, I come from a town in Cape Cod where you can only paint your shingles two different colors. And that's kind of extreme, but..."

"We often deal with directors from LA who lived here from 10 to 30 years ago and have a vision of New York that no longer exists," Pitcus told me. While doing some preliminary location research for Fifteen Minutes, she and some colleagues went to the Bronx looking for that old burned-out Fort Apache The Bronx look. Driving to places like Hunt's Point Road and other places in the South Bronx she found that for the most part it really doesn't exist any longer.

And some directors who are not from New York can make the location person's job more difficult than it already is. From one location manager's observation that some Los Angeles directors seem to think "New York is their back lot," to the story of another who worked with an out-of-town director who thought it was OK to release live cockroaches into an occupied building, the New York location manager has to be both diplomat and creative thinker. In the case of the cockroaches, the location department, unnerved by this "ridiculous, out-of-bounds request," ended up getting letterhead from the Mayor's Office of Film, Theater and Broadcasting and faked a letter to the production company stating how outraged they were about hearing of the request and threatening to pull their permit if they even thought about it.

"Locations is a weird job because you're the first person to say 'you can't do this' usually very early on, sometimes even before the production designer is starting," said location scout Mike Kriaris. Sometimes the scout does something called "ain't scouting" which means he or she goes out and proves that something the director wants cannot be done exactly the way it has been envisioned. One of the great things about New York City, though, is that there are always options and alternatives - which might not be the case in other, more homogenous cities. Locations people in New York can offer the choice of a vast selection of buildings (exterior and interior), all kinds of nooks and crannies, tunnels, bridges, harbors, tankers, riverbanks, roadways, monuments, wildlife refuges,beaches, hundreds of miles of railway and expansive city parks.

But with all of its diversity, New York is no longer a place that can really be seen through the eyes of, say, Travis Bickle. The mean streets are now more and more filled with yuppies. The city feels increasingly like Sleepless in Seattle, rather than Taxi Driver. Many of the small, family-run neighborhood shops which historically gave New York a certain character, are being forced out of business by real estate developers. Big department stores and expensive boutiques are taking their place. There is even a mall in Manhattan, believe it or not.

For the newcomer, it's become incredibly difficult to find a place to live in the city because rents have spiraled out of control. And for the past six years, the city has been strong-armed by a mayor who has his own ideas of what is culturally acceptable and what will be tolerated.

But New York is a city of cycles. It never rests in its ongoing molting process. And there's no reason to doubt that, as it has for the past hundred years, with all its changes, the place will continue to provide an almost mythological backdrop for new cinematic stories. Recently, the direction seems to be toward the mainstream, but the city - as it always has been - is like a living organism in a state of constant flux and evolution. The fact remains that New York, with its stories, atmosphere, talent pool and resources, has no comparison anywhere.

"A lot of stories go to Toronto to be filmed for New York." Joseph Zolfo says. "Toronto doesn't look like New York. There's no city in the world that looks like New York in character and culture and in the diversity of people. You see it on every street corner, every storefront, the buildings, the people on the street, the cars on the street. Every aspect of New York - every detail - is so unique that it can't be duplicated. I've never seen New York successfully duplicated anywhere." MM